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the Andes Chile-Argentina
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Conquering
Volcano Villarrica
Trekking
National Park Huerquehue
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Huw and Allison together with Stephen and
Katy were the riders on our "Colonostrail" ride
that started on February 21. 2006.
Please note:The ride as we do it from 2007 on is one day shorte.r
As they are travelling around the world, they run a diary,
Allison
and Huw around the world , were they publish their
experiences.
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A lot to read, but worth it: they have the
most lively description of this ride I have read up untill
now.
Thanks to Huw and Ally to letting me publish it, thanks to
the four for the pics and for being such a great team and
lovely guests.
Here's what they wrote about their 7 days in the Andes: |
| Day 91 - 21/02/06 - Pucon - Campo Antilco
Up and finished packing up to meet the girl from the horse
centre at the
camp site entrance at 8.30am. She arrived in a yellow van
and was called
Ale (pronounced Ali, not like the beer!!) short for Alejandra
(probably not
spelt right though!!) and was lovely right from the start.
She helped load
up the bikes and off we went to Mathias´ farm, 12 km
from Pucon. We arrived
and met his wife and family and then were introduced to the
other two people
who were to share our week long adventure on horse back!!
They were Steve,
from a town about 100 miles from Atlanta in the USA and Katy,
a gap year
student from Newtown in Wales and who has been volunteering
/ teaching
English in the south of Chile. Our intial impressions were
favourable -
your travelling companions can make a HUGE difference to a
trip like this -
they both seemed like lovely people!!
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We chatted over a delicious al fresco
breakfast and learnt that Ale was to be our guide on the trail
- good news
too! So. To meet the horses!! Very excited. Ale made us try
to guess
which horse in the field would be ours for the week - no-one
got it first
time but Allison had been given a lovely dark bay mare called
Polka to ride
(named because of her black spots on her white socks) and Huw
had an equally
lovely chestnut called Regalona. We brought them in, gave them
a good groom
and then watched how a Chilean saddle and bridle are put on...
very
different to the English set-up and looking a little bit like
a Western
saddle but without the big pommel. They certainly look comfy
though! And
they were! We set off on a 3 1/2 hour circular ride from the
farm - to test
out the horses and for Ale to look at our riding abilities etc.
It was
GREAT! The horses were generally all fairly biddable but with
some get up
and go....Katy´s had a little too much with a bit of bucking
to begin with
and Steve´s had a bit too little resulting in him actually
geting a
different horse for the trail itself. We had a super gallop
along the
volcanic sand on the banks of the river....this looks like it
is going to be
fun!! Unforunately it started to rain just after we got back
from the
ride...and it rained....and rained....and rained!! The rest
of the
afternoon was sorting and snoozing and then we went to eat dinner
in the
house. Mathiass and his wife Karin have been there since 1997
and have a
super set-up with a delightful family (two children and parents
living
there) and they are in the process of building their own house...it
is going
to be fantastic. Over dinner we talked about the possibility
of postponing
the ride by one day as the forecast was bad for tomorrow....that
was fine by
all concerned. There is a girl who works for Mathias who is
called Janet
and is from Switzerland (Mathias himself is originally from
Germany) but she
caused great hilarity by telling Steve that he sounds just like
Forrest
Gump!! He took it in very good part!! But he does a bit!!! Off
to bed in
the rain. Tsk. |
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Day 92 - 22/02/06 - Campo Antilco
Flippin´heck!! Did it rain in the night or what?!?
Mathias made the
decision for us to cancel the ride today when it was still
hurling it down
at 8am...good call. So. We then proceeded to do very little
for the rest
of the day. There isn´t really a lot that you can do
in the rain, on a farm
in the middle of no-where. Steve went fishing but Katy and
us two just read
and slept. Until 6pm when we got a lift into town and then
had a spending
spree. In half an hour we´d both bought jeans and leather
hats, sweeties
and books. The jeans are because our lightweight cotton trousers
are not up
to a weeks hard riding and the hats are because our baseball
caps will not
be much use if it does continue to persist it down! Back to
Antilco at 9pm.
Bed. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!!
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| Day 93 - 23/02/06 - Campo Antilco - Renahue
Allison was up at 7am and it was a beautiful morning!! We
hadn´t realised
but there is a great view of the volcano from the camp site.
The pink light
on it this morning was gorgeous. Then packing and sorting
and organising
horses and more packing. We had thought we might be taking
a pack horse but
no, all the stuff came with us on our horses. We each had
a set of saddle
bags and then one bedding roll that sits behind the saddle.
The horses
didn´t appear to object though! We finally left the
farm around 12pm and
then trundled along tracks and roads for a couple of hours.
We got to a
lake called Carburga around 2pm and sat on the beach eating
empanadas
(delicious Cornish pasty-type Chilean food) and feeling very
content with
the world. Then after lunch we went along the black sand beach
(from the
volcano) and then along a track by the side of the lake. And
then. The real
stuff began. We rode up into a wooded valley. and when we
say up, we mean
UP! Oh, my goodness......how steep!! The horses were fabulous
and puffed
and panted but didn't falter (they did pause for breath quite
frequently
though) and we gained a lot of height in a short space of
time! We got to
our first camp site around 7pm - a delightful plateau - and
we got off the
horses, unsaddled them and turned them loose!! What clever
horses they are
to not run away (or is that thick?!?!?) A beautiful evening
followed with a
great soup and pasta tea cooked on the open fire. We sat around
the fire
and chatted and toasted marshmallows and looked at the stars....good,
eh!
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| Day 94 - 24/02/06 -Renahue - Termas de Rio Blanco
Up around 8am, to the sound of bellowing cows, and then breakfast
by the
fire. Then to find the horses. We discovered they are NOT
as good as we'd
thought last night.....we were actually camped in a huge enclosed
plain...and so they couldn't have gone home even if they'd
wanted to!!
Saddled up and off around 11am - a lovely steady pace to this
trip - another
fabulous day. We did lots more up and down, through ancient
forest of huge,
tall, monkey puzzle trees. This whole area is famous for them
and they are
magnificent. There are also huge areas with only low growth
and that is as
a result of a very large fire over 50 years ago - it puts
the age of the
other trees into perspective. Everything is very dry here
- it is a totally
different climate - they do get rain and snow but then the
rest of the time
is very dry so, where at home we would have damp and mossy
woodland, here
the fallen trees end up bleached and brittle. Part of today
was SO steep we
had to get off and let the horses go down alone. Ale and Luis
stayed on
though - they must have glue on their bums! The Chilean saddle
and stirrups
are very different to the English ones though and do make
you feel much more
confident and secure in the down bits (well, it meant Allison
didn't squeak
QUITE as much as she might have done otherwise!! - not a brave
soldier going
down hill!!) The end of the ride today was at some hot springs.
We
untacked and rode the horses to the field bareback...with
cantering
too....and then back for a beer. Then, Huw went for a snooze
and Allison
went with Steve and Katy to the springs. How good are these
things? The
hot water flowed into the river and so there were some VERY
hot parts, some
cooler bits and then the river was freezing. We were all brave
enough to
get into the river but Katy got the highest score for braving
the cold the
most. We were the objects of much amusement to a Chilean family...three
very white Gringo's squealing and exclaiming at the water
temp.....what more
do you need for entertainment? Dinner tonight was a bar-b-que
prepared by
Luis and Ale and was delicious and was washed down with red
wine. Tops.
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| Day 94 - 24/02/06 -Renahue - Termas de Rio Blanco
Up around 8am, to the sound of bellowing cows, and then breakfast
by the
fire. Then to find the horses. We discovered they are NOT
as good as we'd
thought last night.....we were actually camped in a huge enclosed
plain...and so they couldn't have gone home even if they'd
wanted to!!
Saddled up and off around 11am - a lovely steady pace to this
trip - another
fabulous day. We did lots more up and down, through ancient
forest of huge,
tall, monkey puzzle trees. This whole area is famous for them
and they are
magnificent. There are also huge areas with only low growth
and that is as
a result of a very large fire over 50 years ago - it puts
the age of the
other trees into perspective. Everything is very dry here
- it is a totally
different climate - they do get rain and snow but then the
rest of the time
is very dry so, where at home we would have damp and mossy
woodland, here
the fallen trees end up bleached and brittle. Part of today
was SO steep we
had to get off and let the horses go down alone. Ale and Luis
stayed on
though - they must have glue on their bums! The Chilean saddle
and stirrups
are very different to the English ones though and do make
you feel much more
confident and secure in the down bits (well, it meant Allison
didn't squeak
QUITE as much as she might have done otherwise!! - not a brave
soldier going
down hill!!) The end of the ride today was at some hot springs.
We
untacked and rode the horses to the field bareback...with
cantering
too....and then back for a beer. Then, Huw went for a snooze
and Allison
went with Steve and Katy to the springs. How good are these
things? The
hot water flowed into the river and so there were some VERY
hot parts, some
cooler bits and then the river was freezing. We were all brave
enough to
get into the river but Katy got the highest score for braving
the cold the
most. We were the objects of much amusement to a Chilean family...three
very white Gringo's squealing and exclaiming at the water
temp.....what more
do you need for entertainment? Dinner tonight was a bar-b-que
prepared by
Luis and Ale and was delicious and was washed down with red
wine. Tops.
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| Day 95 - 25/02/06 - Termas de Rio Blanco - Laguna
Isolda
Allison woke up around 7am and got up and went for another
hot springs
dip....pure bliss to lie in gorgeous hot water and watch the
sun come up and
touch the mountains...ahhhh. Then had to sort out a chocolate
/ clothing
crisis. Huw had stashed two bars of chocolate (emergency rations)
in his
bag. Unfortunately, they must have been near the outside of
the saddle bag
and in with his clothes. Hot sun + chocolate = melted chocolate
all over
trousers, underpants, socks and t-shirt. Tsk. Not only was
it a
mess....there was no chocolate left!! Ale helped to sort the
problem out by
showing Allison the "bath" rooms where you can use
shampoo as the water goes
into the drains not back into the river. The bath are carved
out of wood and
the water is pumped straight from the springs and it is great!!
Then
breakfast and horses from the field - Huw was very brave and
rode bareback
back down from the field. We finally got around to leaving
around 12.30pm
and rode up a wide valley with a sandy track. We stopped for
lunch at a
logging place and Huw provided the after lunch entertainment
by performing a
perfect side-wards roll into a ditch....barely missing the
stream! There
was a polite pause.....and then histerical laughter from the
rest of us!
Bless him! The rest of the ride today was through a bamboo
forest. Not
only did the horses want to eat like it was their last ever
chance but there
were some HUGE steep bits - Allison squeaking again, but more
quietly now!
It really feels like a HUGE adventure, proper exploration
stuff - which in a
sense it is as with every rainfall there are landslides and
trees fall and
we had to make detours off the path - although "the path"
is an
overstatement really. Got to the camp site, another open space
and let the
horses wander around with long ropes tied round their necks
while we put the
tents up and got sorted. The fire was lit and vegatable rice
was made for
tea. We had hoped to walk down to the Laguna after tea but
Ale decided we
wouldn't get back before dark. Steve was disappointed as he
has brought a
telescopic fishing rod with him and wanted to have a go. We
built the fire
up to a roaring blaze with two massive logs though and spent
the evening
with toasted marshmallows (on bamboo sticks) and little nips
of whisky from
Huw's hip flask. The horses were put into a huge corral built
of massive
tree trunks for the night. Nice. |
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| Day 96 - 26/02/06 - Laguna Isolda - Termas de
Rio Blanco
Hmmm. Not the best of nights for Allison. A headache developed
rapidly and
she spent a greater part of the night in and out of the tent
being horribly
sick. Not nice. Woke this morning with a lingering headache
and still
feeling decidedly odd. Added to which, it was raining. All
she really
wanted to do was to go back to bed but, as this was not possible,
she moped
around whilst Huw packed up. Ale and Luis decided that they
would tack the
horses up one at a time and get us on as quickly as possible,
which they did
very efficiently. The next 4 hours were pretty grim for Allison
(who sat
under her poncho and just held on!!) but not brilliant for
the others
either. The rain was quite heavy and we went through some
very dense
forest. Not much chatting going on this morning, although
Katy did some
singing which was nice. Steve got to see the lake but we hurried
on by, no
fishing this morning mate! The end of the forest bit was down
a couple of
extremely steep (and with the rainfall, slippy) muddy slopes.
Katy's horse
went down virtually on its bum! We didn't stop for lunch but
carried on the
track to the hot springs again - same ones, we'd done a loop
from yesterday
morning. My goodness they were a welcome sight! The horses
got a good feed
when we arrived too... they deserve it, they work so hard
on this trip, but
they generally have their ears perked forwards so they must
be enjoying it
too! The rain did stop when we got there and so we were able
to put the
tents out to dry etc. Ale organised for us to use a big shed
to cook and
sleep in tonight so it was all looking a bit brighter. Ale's
mum and dad
were at the springs, having rented a cabin for the weekend.
They were
having a family bar-b-que this afternoon and then heading
back to Pucon
tonight. Ale could see Allison was drooping and so marched
her over to the
cabin and said (in Spanish) "Mum, this is Allison, she
is knackered, can she
sleep in your bed for a bit" Mum said "of course,
no problem!!" What stars!
Allison inserted earplugs and was soon dead to the world.
Marvellous.
During this time, Katy was also asleep in the next room and
Huw and Steve
were enjoying the family bar-b-que. Everyone happy! When Ale
woke Allison
around 7pm it was to tell her that the decision had been made
to rent the
cabin for us for tonight. WHAT a great idea! So, feeling better,
Allison
went off for a hot spring. She tried to par-boil herself and
had a lovely
chat with a nice Frenchman at the same time. Then, her lovely
husband
brought her a nice cup of tea....ah, bliss. To top it off
she went for a
proper bath and hair wash in the wooden bath. Then back to
the cabin and
more delicious food prepared by Luis and Ale, toasty warm
with the stove
lit, silly games of 20 questions and then, for Allison at
least, bed. The
others did not stay up too late either. |
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| Day 97 - 27/02/06 - Termas de
Rio Blanco - Renahue
Well, we had a super toasty and comfy night last night. The
others were in
a room with two bunk beds and so suffered slightly from others
coughing/rolling over/snoring etc. There are certain advantages
to being
married....you get the double bed! A light drizzle this am
but nothing like
yesterday. We had breakfast, packed and cleared up and then
went for the
horses. They were almost dry and had another feed this morning
but Huw and
Katy's horses both had mysterious small lumps on their head
and neck. They
didn't appear to be annoying to them though. They were all
well on their
toes today - maybe a combination between knowing they wereon
the homeward
stretch and having SUCH good tucker!! Anyway, off on some
tracks and then
back onto the paths alongside a river. Polka, Allisons horse,
is not fond
of wasps and so when one arrived just as they were about to
go down a
particularly tricky steep slide it got a bit exciting. It
turned into more
of a leap and a quiver and a dance and a jog. Huw assures
Allison that she
didn't disgrace herself though! We stopped for lunch just
after that by a
lovely pool in the river. Steve went off with his fishing
rod.....and
success!!! He caught a trout. He had tales of the one that
got away but the
one he caught was much appreciated and delicious!! Cooked
on a bamboo pole
over the fire. Huw took his rod and gave it a go too but only
succeeded in
catching a leaf!! Then off again, with beautiful views of
the lake and more
solo horses (this time it was an uphill path that it was safer
that we got
off for) Katy had a bit of excitement when her saddle bags
slipped and
caused Choco to do some downhill bucking and farting but she
dealt with it
admirably. We camped not far from the first nights camp.......with
loads of
pigs around! There was a big pink pig and a big, mummy, boar-type
and lots
of little boar/piglets!! VERY cute and very interested in
us!! We got the
tents up and then helped to erect a shelter... the clouds
were heading
towards at high speed.. using our ponchos and.... yup, bamboo
poles!! Katy
went off to have a little snooze....and didn't emerge from
her tent again
that night!! The rest of us had tea under the extremely cosy
shelter and
finished off the whisky. Ale fixed Allison's hat - she had
threaded a neck
strap through the holes in the side but it did look a bit
ridiculous
(Mathias even suggested it looked a bit like Shrek!!) and
so she put the
strap inside the hat - much better! Then bed, our last night
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| Day 98 - 28/02/06 - Renahue - Campo Antilco
Up, breakfast and packed and off to look for the horses.
Luis set off but
we soon lost him. Happily, Steve found the horses for us this
morning -
good man! We did the Day 1 ride today, but obviously in reverse,
so the
steep uphill bits became DOWNHILL bits!! Eeeeekkk!!! However
Allison is now
actually quite cool, calm and collected about the whole process.....she
is
so happy she had a steady horse with Polka. We had a couple
of exciting
incidents....including saddlebags..... both Huw's and Ale's
bags slipped
during canters. Regalona was NOT a happy girl and bucked and
bucked so much
the tail strap burst and the bags flew off!!! Huw was great
and actually
enjoyed it!! Weird man!! Back to the beach were we had pizza
brought to us
on horse back and then a trundle on the tracks back to the
camp - with some
fantastic canters.....yeeeeeee, ha! We got back to Antilco
with a bit of a
sad feeling...this week has been excellent and we have both
got attached to
our horses. We sorted them out, a good feed, sorted the packs
out and then
took them out to their field for a good, well earned rest.
Then tents up
and time for a great bar-b-que (we are going to start looking
like a piece
of beef before too long!!), good chat and bed. |
For further information,
questions and reservations:
horseback@antilco.com
(take care in internetcafes:
e-mail editor may not work!!)
or call: +56 9 97139758
Antilco - Horseback riding
in Pucon , Chile
trail riding around NPs. Huerquehue and Villarrica |
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